A Makeover for Moneta

Colorblock Monettie Collage

I should have been done messing with my Moneta pattern after all of those muslins. But, after my first two dresses got some real world wear time…it was pretty clear that all of the fitting changes I made couldn’t keep the shoulder seams from falling off my shoulders. 

So, I hacked it one last time.

By borrowing the neckline, shoulders and sleeves of the Nettie bodysuit and merging it with the waistline and skirt of the Moneta dress, I got the look I’d been after the whole time!

Colorblock Monettie

Not minding the windy spring day, especially sans snow.

I assumed I’d keep all of the alterations I made to the Moneta bodice below the armhole, but the circumference fit perfectly in the Nettie’s size 16, so I simply drew the Moneta’s tapered-in waistline on the Nettie, keeping the side seam length I worked so hard to get right. Except for my continued learning curve with shirring the waist with 1/4″ elastic, the Moneta skirt was fine as-drafted.

The original Moneta neckline (high in the front, low scoop in the back) is one of its best features, but the Nettie’s scoop neck is similar enough, I kept it this time – mostly out of fear of over-hacking again.

Tragedy struck the matching bodice (a sleeveless Moneta) I’d originally sewn for this dress. A stupid mistake (I’d rather not relive) put me in improvise mode — the perfect state of mind for trying out the Monettie mashup that I’d been marinating on for days.

Colorblock Monettie

A few things about the construction of this dress:

  1. This plan B blue bodice is self-lined. Which worked out great for smoothing out the lumps and bumps that are usually on display with fitted single knits. However, the extra fabric added bulk to the shoulder seam once the sleeve was serged in. Next time, I’ll stabilize the seam with something other than elastic to reduce cross-seam bulk.
  2. I avoided using clear elastic again (can only find 3/8″ locally) and opted for a 1/4″ knit elastic to shirr the Moneta skirt’s waistline. I basted it on by stretching it as I sewed. I think I can get it to shirr more by stretching it tighter, but I suspect I wouldn’t need to with clear elastic.
  3.  I coverstitched the sleeves and skirt in the morning before work — thinking I could convert my convertible serger, thread it, press, and coverstitch two hems before breakfast. I still suck. It took over an hour. I was late to work. But, I looked damn good in my freshly hemmed dress.

Colorblock Monettie

Monettie is my new boo now. Her cousin Moneta has a great neckline and bodice, but the original sleeves don’t have the sleek, negative-ease fit I wanted. I didn’t realize I was looking for the fit of a bodysuit until I spent days trying to redraft the Moneta to fit like one. I came close, but all of my changes probably created a fit problem.

As they say, the third time’s the charm. This pattern mashup has got me terribly excited for spring sewing. The box full of knit yardage that landed on my doorstep today is meant for a couple more Monetties. I’ll try not to bore you with the forthcoming fit and flare rainbow.

What are your favorite patterns to mash up?

12 thoughts on “A Makeover for Moneta

  1. Very pretty, I love the color combo! I can think of only one mash-up I did a few years back. I mixed Burda dress bodice 104 from Feb 2011 with the skirt from Pattern Runway’s gathered sundress. That was quite an experience (most ever muslined project I think…). I love taking a pattern (or two) and turning it into something else!


    • Thanks! Mashups take some bravery and muslins are the answer. Every time I try to blend patterns, there’s some little detail I forget like changing a seam allowance.


  2. Wow gorgeous and what a useful dress. When I look back over all the things I’ve made, the most wearable was s McCalls T shirt dress which I hacked to perfection – almost! For reinforcing the shoulder seam a sewing teacher put me onto cheap nylon lace it works really well and is less bulky than clear elastic.
    Pls do show us your future Monetties!


  3. Thanks! The wearability of this knit dress has changed my perspective on sewing…it’s got me warming up to the idea of uniform dressing – you know wearing variations of the same style everyday. So glad to know you went through t-shirt dress hacking phase, too. I was feeling a bit obsessed about it. THANK YOU for the nylon lace recommendation. I might have something that could work in my notions stash.


  4. I love this bright blue on you – it brings out the clarity and brightness of your colouring. And the mash-up Monettie is great. It is always worth persevering to get what you really want I find. Great work!

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  5. I love it. Great colors and great fit.

    I “mashup” patterns all the time. More often than I use just one pattern, in fact. I pick fabric first, then get a vision in my head of what I want it to look like before I even look at patterns and I can rarely find just one pattern to make it.


  6. Thanks, Lynn. I know exactly what you mean about working hard to get the look you want using multiple patterns…I’d bet the design approach is unique to seamstresses. We don’t necessarily have the time (or skill) to draft from scratch, but we still have an eye for design (or at least design that works for us) and mashing up different patterns is how we execute.


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